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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 12-25-2012, 09:24 PM
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damonw81 damonw81 is offline
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Bubbles in epoxy fill.

What should I do to eliminate bubbles in the epoxy that fills the filework on the tang?
I am using the 5min clear loc-tite epoxy. I let the scales sit about 1/16" past the tang to provide a well for extra epoxy to sit in, then I waited 24 hours to sand the excess away. If I had to guess I would think that a thinner or slower setting epoxy would let the bubbles rise out but I'm a little lost on this one. Also I tinted the epoxy with testor's enamel, but I got bubbles in the previous one that wasnt tinted so I dont think that was it.
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2012, 06:41 AM
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Slow cure epoxy will do better. Try Alumilite dye for you epoxy, it's formulated for just that purpose. Most decent craftstores carry it in a variety of colors.....train and model section. Tiny drop goes very long way and mixes easily.
Also try slower mixing not rapid stir with the epoxy...less bubbles entrained in mix. Lapidarys use a "rolling" mix using a toothpick to eliminate bubbles in gluing up doublets and triplets where bubbles will really glare back at you and ruin a piece.


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Old 12-26-2012, 12:32 PM
metal99 metal99 is offline
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I use a 30min epoxy and if I'm not careful I still get some bubbles. What I found worked good for me was to flood the file work after clamping the scales on. Then I tap the knife lightly to help "agitate" the bubbles to the surface. It seems to work alright most of the time.


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Old 12-28-2012, 01:13 PM
reefera4m reefera4m is offline
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An easy way to 'thin' Loctite 5 minute epoxy is to warm it up. I use this epoxy quite a bit on a number of different projects. Before I start I put the bottles in the clothes dryer (on a drying rack) and run it in medium heat for about 10 minutes. The epoxy, once warmed, flows easier, mixes better with less bubbles and the bubbles that do occur usually release before it hardens.

That said, heating works even better on the slower curing Loctite epoxies.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:07 PM
Kimall Kimall is offline
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Glue

I use Techni Glue epoxy and get no bubbles do you guys have in the US.?
Cheers kim
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2012, 05:14 AM
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Warming epoxy works but does change some parameters to be aware of:
>heated epoxy will set faster so be prepared to work fast
>it will make it more runny/liquid so watch the drip factor and how you support your work and how tight you clamp it
>overheat, dependent on quality and make up of epoxy brand, and you will destroy it's integrety to bond as well as make it milky
Use caution when heating it and watch your temps.

If you want to be totally bewildered with epoxy, search and read the "Glue War" threads, here on KNF and over on Bladeforums. Give you a major headache.


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Old 12-29-2012, 06:40 AM
Brad Johnson Brad Johnson is offline
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I don't do filled filework but I watched a golf club repairman fill a club spot with epoxy and he flashed the epoxy with a hand-held torch. He told me the quick heat would bring the bubbles to the surface. Hope this helps.


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Old 12-29-2012, 08:21 AM
Imakethings Imakethings is offline
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You can thin down epoxy with acetone, or denatured alcohol. Having it thinned down a touch will make it easier to remove bubbles.
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:28 AM
Jon Kennedy Jon Kennedy is offline
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pull vacuum on it after epoxy is installed! it will remove any air bubbles you have, i make small vacuum chambers that would work good for ya
Jon
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:31 AM
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There was some serious concerns about the acetone weakening the integrety of the epoxy long term (I think they chased that rabbit in the "Glue Wars" as well, but not sure it was resolved). It does break down cured epoxy over time. I've done it when filling mosaic pins, but have not tried it where it might affect holding strength.
Anyone with some serious test/time results?


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  #11  
Old 01-01-2013, 01:16 AM
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damonw81 damonw81 is offline
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Thanks for all the great advice. Now that I have put handles on all the blades that I ground I'm ready to start my second round. I will probably only file the tang on one of them, its alot more work than I anticipated. I thought that I might as well learn filework while I was learning the rest of this stuff...I appreciate all the support from here.
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